The pictures that are shown next to each of the location descriptions are scans of pieces of scenery used for running this adventure at Necronomicon 2000. For playtesting, however, cardboard "dungeon tiles" from a fantasy role-playing game were used instead.

"Floor tiles" can greatly add to the game, since there are many situations in which the exact locations of the Posse members are crucial - particularly whenever a trap goes off. One way to make these "floor tiles" would be to draw floor plans on pieces of thin cardboard or grid paper, and draw details and features directly onto these "floor tiles". As the Posse explores the tomb, new sections can be laid down. If you care to, you might color your floor tiles, painting or drawing in decorations on the floor, or images of important items the Posse may find (such as the skeleton near the entrance, et cetera). To represent the locations of major objects, you might try using miniatures, or else cutting out pieces of paper to represent the location of the object.

Another approach (and the one that I took) was to made semi-three-dimensional "floor tiles" from foam insulation board. Large sheets of foam insulation board can be found in hardware stores, typically light blue or pink in color, available in varying thicknesses. (I use 1/2" thick sheets for projects like this.) You will also want to obtain a foam wire cutter, which can be found in many craft and fabric stores. (Such a cutter is typically used to cut green foam used for floral arrangements, and is powered by a couple of D cell batteries, basically consisting of nothing more complex than a housing for the batteries, a metal frame, and a thin wire stretched between the frame, back to one end of the batteries, which gets hot and burns its way through foam.)

If you take the time to carefully measure out dimensions with a ruler and mark them on the foam with a pencil first, it's fairly easy to cut out floor pieces from the foam, and then to make short walls (no taller than 1" high) to put on the sides. You can glue the pieces of foam together with a hot glue gun, though my preferred method is to use carpenter's wood glue, and to use nails and tacks to "anchor" the pieces of foam together while the glue dries (and to reinforce the bond after it dries). These floor sections can be painted with craft acrylic paints, and you can score the surface of the floor in a grid pattern to more easily denote squares and distances. (The best paints to use for this are the relatively cheap craft acrylic paints available in squeeze bottles in craft stores or the crafts section of certain department stores, rather than using more expensive acrylic paints. Most of my tomb was painted in "sandstone" color.)

An extra decorative touch can be added to the walls by printing off strips of "hieroglyphs" onto paper, and then using a magic marker to color in the glyphs (It doesn't need to be neat and orderly - just to add splashes of color), and finally gluing sections of the strips onto the walls to represent wall murals. Most of the background areas of hieroglyphic murals should be colored yellow. Green, red, orange and indigo are used a lot as colors - but not so much purple. Figures may be colored a tan or sienna color. Grey is not likely to be found. The hieroglyphs need have no particular meaning - the purpose here is just for decoration.

It is a good idea to keep the walls fairly short in height, so that they do not block line of sight to the miniatures placed within the tomb. Your players will typically be sitting down through the game, and they may not have as good of a view of the miniatures as you, the Marshal do.

Furnishings can add a great deal to the environment. With a dab of glue, you can fix furnishings in place, even though the Posse may well pull them up and move them during the course of the game. In that case, you can just pop off the furnishing and move it around. This may pull off a bit of paint with it, but that can be fairly easily touched up later if you want to reuse the scenery.

In a craft store, you may find a good source of "pottery" by checking out decorative beads, and wooden shapes made for "shadow boxes". I found a bagged assortment of plastic "pony beads" with "engraved" designs on them that I used - without any alterations - to represent vats, pots and pedestals within the tomb. Gold "glitter paint" can be used to represent extravagant piles of treasure, by allowing a glob of the paint to dry in place. (The glob will shrink in size, but the result may well suggest a pile of gold coins ... and a few flakes of glitter of other colors can suggest gems and such in the mix.)

If you visit the local thrift or outlet store, you might well find small toys or knick knacks that, if painted up a bit, can do nicely to represent statues or treasures within the tomb. In fact, for a while there were toy sets out for a movie called "The Mummy", one of which featured a set of canopic jars. (They were a bit oversized, but would still look nice as props.)

Lastly, you can still work wonders with bits of scrap foam and a wire cutter or a sharp hobby knife. The Canopic Shrine can be represented by a cube of foam painted gold or bronze, for instance. For the balance at the Shrine of Anubis, I used a plastic balance that came from an old Milton Bradley "HeroQuest" board game. I also supplemented the decoration of my tomb with bits of resin and metal scenery obtained at the local game hobby store. There are plenty of miniatures lines that have mummies, sarcophagi, and vaguely Egyptian-looking decorations that could be used to add a bit to the tomb.

For the outside area, I painted the sand in burnt sienna colors, and made a little "oasis" with a recessed surface of blue, crossed with striations of lighter blue to suggest reflections in the water. I used some plastic "palm trees" from another miniatures game, and I used an old model truck (circa World War II) for the vehicle parked outside. (It's a bit out of scale, but should serve for representational purposes.) A bit of "gravel" from a railroad hobby shop helped to suggest grit and piles of sand in certain places. Even though it would have made sense for the outdoors area to be hilly with dunes, I left the area flat, since the purpose of this was to have a place to set miniatures on ... and miniatures tend to fall over when they're not on flat surfaces!

The best scenery I was able to acquire, alas, is discontinued. Grendel Models (once working in association with Heartbreaker Hobbies) made high-quality resin gaming scenery, including the "Pharaoh's Tomb" and "Pharaoh's Crypt" scenery sets. The Anubis Shrine, the Anubis Gate and the sarcophagus come from those sets.

The selection of miniatures in your collection may well impact what pre-generated characters you choose to have handy. That was certainly the case with me.

I highly recommend the "Indiana Jones" line of miniatures, if you can find them, since you'll find no better match for the sort of theme this adventure is trying to approximate. I also highly recommend "Call of Cthulhu" miniatures, if you can still find them, and certain miniatures from "Vampire: the Masquerade" and "Mage: the Ascension" from Ral Partha models. Some of these models appear to be dressed in clothing appropriate to the period. To represent the Nazis, you'd be best off trying to locate a source of historical gaming miniatures in 25mm or 28mm scale ... which isn't easy to do in the U.S. I had to substitute by using "Ducal Militia" plastic figures from the "Warzone" boxed game, and painting them up as Germans. (They looked fairly German to begin with, though real German soldiers wouldn't be wearing large shoulderpads and leg greaves, and carrying such large guns.) A couple of "Commissars" from Citadel Miniatures worked nicely as German officers, and there are plenty of lines of miniatures that provide figures that could serve as mummies or other undead. For Aye himself, I used a "Light Wizard" figure made by Citadel Miniatures.